Falifornia: Falmouth, Massachusetts

Cape Cod had been on my travel itinerary since childhood. Not only had it featured in the childhood fictions I loved, but in the children’s atlas where I learned to feel excited about the variety in the world and eager to see it all. I wanted to go when the fall colours made it deep reds and oranges, and nearly left it off the itinerary for this trip, were it not for seeing no reason not to go. It was a decision between Sandwich and Falmouth, and Falmouth won due to its proximity to Martha’s Vineyard and cheaper hotels.

I arrived on the Peter Pan bus from Boston, which was a very short journey, stopping beforehand in Bourne.

The walk from the bus station to my hotel took me along the Main Street, where I returned after checking in. It’s a simple street similar to all the streets in tourist locations in the states. Long stretches of gift shops, ice cream parlours, bakeries and restaurants.

I wanted a drink and some lunch, so like the health nut I am, I had a granita from Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Shop and took a croissant from Maison Villatte. The patisserie had come recommended here, but the granita was more like a slush puppy that hadn’t been well mixed. The croissant I took to eat on the beachside and it was very buttery and almost melted by the time I was on the beach. 

It was a nice beach to walk along, what I really loved was the variety of stones and shells washing up along the coast. Like an excitable child, I found myself running along and collecting anything that glittered in the right way. And I have the audacity to ask why my bag became so much heavier.

The beach abruptly ends to make way for a private beach, and by walking along the adjacent road, it’s possible to follow to beach until the Knob.

 That’s what I did. The scenery is beach, but slowly the long Shining Sea Bikeway weaves through grass and river and thick forest, then back to beach. 

The Nobska Point lighthead looms above at this point. This is what I walked 5.3km for. A beautiful beacon on the hill. I had never been so close to a lighthouse, but always felt drawn to them from their fantastical ideology in fictions.

It’s a 45 minute walk back, so when I did arrive back it was time for dinner. I selected DiVine Pizzeria despite knowing I probably should get seafood. I mean this is New England, right? But this pizza looked so good, and it was. The staff were friendly and treated everyone like a local.

I wrapped up my day there, exhausted from my long day, and the following morning I had an early bus. Despite allowing 45 minutes for the 15 minute walk, I arrived at the departure time on the dot due to getting lost a record of two times. Maps.me, my longtime friend had failed me and the place I pinned was not the place where the bus stop was! I saw the minutes ticking by, quicker and quicker and I had three minutes until it departed, with no sign of the bus. Luckily, I stopped the Mum of a friendly cyclist family and she pointed me in the direction of the Shining Sea Bikeway – another old friend – which took me to the station, sweaty, out of breath, but in time for my bus.

Falmouth was lovely. I was premature for the autumnal colours but it was okay for me. It was peaceful, scenic and rich with Cape Cod beauty.


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